Monday, May 28, 2012

Cool Stuff I Saw At Doors Open

St. Lawrence Hall
So! As you are probably very much already aware, it was Doors Open in Toronto this weekend. Which means that I spent the last couple of days running around like a crazy person, seeing as many historically awesome buildings as I could. (Not an easy task when you like sleeping in as much as I do and everything closes by five.) I managed to catch some pretty ridiculously cool stuff, from ballet at St. Lawerence Hall to One King West's giantass bank vault. And I took photos and notes the whole time. Which I now share with you, my lovely readers:



Osgoode Hall

Osgoode Hall has been on the corner of Queen & University, nearly as long as there has been a Queen & University. It was originally built in the 1830s, with lots of additions and subtractions since then (including that iconic black wrough-iron fence). The architect was William Warren Baldwin, a doctor and lawyer who was one of the most important pro-democracy figures in Toronto's early history. He's also the same guy who built the original Spadina House, and had Spadina Avenue carved out of the forest.

Osgoode Hall is also where an escaped slave, Thornton Blackburn, got a job working as a waiter. He used the money he earned there to launch the city's first horse-drawn cab company, which in turn gave him enough money to help other former slaves get on their feet after coming to Toronto through the Underground Railroad. I wrote more about him here.

Today, it's still home to the Law Society of Upper Canada and some of Ontario's highest courts.

Osgoode Hall

Osgoode Hall's atrium was one of the additions, added in the 1870s

The ceiling in the atrium

The floor of the atrium

The overwhelming diversity of the Law Society of Upper Canada, 1932

The Great Library

WWI memorial

One of the very few places that remembers the contribution of the fathers of Canadian democracy: Robert Baldwin and Louis-Hippolyte Lafontaine

Robert Baldwin, William Warren's son, was born and raised in Toronto

Baldwin teamed with this guy, Lafontaine, to bring democracy to Canada. More here.

I know John Beverley Robinson and an anti-democratic Family Compact jerk of a judge, but Osgoode Hall's pretty big on him

A Toronto history handbook from the late 1800s

 

Old City Hall

Old City Hall has been towering over the intersection of Queen & Bay since the very end of the 1900s. It was built by another of Toronto's most important architects, E.J. Lennox, the same guy who did Casa Loma, the King Edward Hotel, and the west wing of Queen's Park. It's Old City Hall that he gets the most attention for, though. In large part because of his battles with city council. He went waaaaaaaaaaaay overbudget, spending six times as much as he was supposed to. They retaliated by saying he wasn't allowed to carve his name into the building, like he usually did, but he did anyway. And...

Lennox had the councillors carved into the facade of the building, looking like fools...

...while he added himself looking normal. (The guy with the moustache.)

The huge, spectacular "Union of Commerce & Industry" stained glass window

Fancypants courtroom

The mosaic floor is one of the reasons things went over budget

Angels span the spandrels

 

St. James Cathedral

St. James was the very first church in Toronto, first built in the late 1700s on the same spot (at King & Church) where the cathedral now stands. It was at the centre of city life all the way through the 1800s, and played a huge role in the battle to bring real democracy to Canada. I wrote all about that for Torontoist here.


The first St. James built all the way back in the 17freaking00s

Our first bishop, John Strachan, hero of the War of 1812, hater of democracy

I believe Strachan is buried somewhere beneath this choir

St James has great stained glass, including this WWI memorial

In the doorway to the cathedral, they have John Ridout's headstone. He was killed in a famous duel with Samuel Jarvis, which I wrote about here.


St. Lawrence Hall

Just across the street from St. James Cathedral is St. Lawrence Hall, another building that played a central role in the political and social life of Toronto. It was built in the wake of the Great Fire of 1849, which wiped out the whole neighbourhood. It's where Sir John A. Macdonald and George Brown rallied their political troops in the drive toward Confederation. And former slave/abolitionist leader Frederick Douglass gave a big speech here once at an three-day-long anti-slavery convention which officially declared Canada to be the best destination for refugee slaves.

St. Lawrence Hall at King & Jarvis

Ballet in the Great Hall

Jump!

St. Lawrence Hall just a few years after it opened

The Great Hall ballroom back in the day

The ceiling of the Great Hall is totally awesome

One King West

Now, you probably recognize One King West as the building with the huge fin-shaped condo tower built on top of it on the southwest corner of King & Yonge. But when it originally opened in 1914, it was home to the Dominion Bank (back in its pre-TD days).

One King West

Dowwwwn into the vaults

This was one of the biggest bank vaults in the world

It took 19 horses to pull the 40 ton door

The One King West website calls it "one of the largest and heaviest doors ever built"

The 45 foot ceilings of the Great Banking Hall

The Great Banking Hall has the provincial emblems embedded in the ceiling (except for you, Newfoundland, you took to long to join Confederation)

The Great Banking Hall had a 100 foot teller counter, now the longest bar in Canada


The Church of the Redeemer

The Church of the Redeemer is that one on of the northeast corner of Bloor and Avenue/University. It has been there since 1879, when it opened to serve some of the Anglican residents of the village of Yorkville.

The Church of the Redeemer

The church in the 1890s, when Bloor and University were still dirt roads

The church has amaaaaaaaazing stained glass windows

Lots of the church's peeps died fighting WWI and they've got lots of memorial windows

The church's choir hanging out in 1907

"I Know That My Redeemer Liveth"

City Hall

By the end of the 1950s, Old City Hall wasn't big enough for Toronto anymore. And so a new, modern design was chosen. A slum was level and the current iconic City Hall went up and the new Nathan Phillips Square was created. It all opened in 1965.

There's a cool diorama of the city in City Hall. All the pink buildings are heritage properties.

Our mayor's office. Note the football statue and the photo of Ford's dad hanging with Mike Harris

The very next day, Mayor Ford quit his own challenge three weeks early

Toronto's Park & Rec Department!

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Doors Open Is This Weekend!

Inside St. James Cathedral
It's probably the biggest and awesomest Toronto history event of the year: Doors Open. For one weekend, dozens of our city's most interesting and historically important buildings will be open to the public, letting you check out our heritage totally free of charge. And it's happening this very weekend, May 26 and 27. 

You'll find the  full list of participating buildings here. There's an app you can download, too. And I expect I'll be tweeting and instagramming from the places I visit. You can follow me on both accounts @TODreamsProject.

This year, as you might expect, I'm especially excited to check out some of the buildings that have played a role in events I've written about on the blog. St. James Cathedral, a central landmark in the story of the founding of Toronto, the War of 1812 and the battle to establish true Canadian democracy, is on the list. (You can read my post about its history on Torontoist here.) So is Mackenzie House, the home donated to our first mayor and pro-democracy revolutionary William Lyon Mackenzie once he was finally able to return from exile. (You can read about his failed uprising here.) You'll also be able to visit Osgoode Hall, the law school designed by William Warren Baldwin, another one of our earliest pro-democracy advocates (pun  very much intended), which is also where escaped slave Thornton Blackburn worked as a waiter to raise the money he needed to start Toronto's first horse-drawn cab company. The oldest surviving church in Toronto, Little Trinity, which Blackburn helped to establish, will be open too. (I wrote about Blackburn's story here.) Then, of course, there's Fort York, the military base that has been here since 1793 — the first part of Toronto ever built. And Regis College at U of T, which was once the Christie mansion, where the son of the famous cookie baron is said to have kept his mistress imprisoned in a secret room. (That weird story is here.) Plus there's the Tollkeeper's Cottage. (Torontonians have always hated road tolls.) Ooh and the gorgeous old Winter Garden Theatre, which actually looks like a garden. And that grand palace of public works infrastructure, the R.C Harris Water Treatment Plant. I could go on and on.

Sooooooo yeah. Lots and lots and lots of stuff happening. Take a little time to check it out and learn about the history of your city firsthand.


Monday, May 14, 2012

Aunt Hetty, The Lovin' Spoonful and The Mamas & The Papas

Zal Yanovsky
Twenty years before she played Aunt Hetty on Road To Avonlea, Jackie Burroughs met Zal Yanovsky while he was living in a dryer in a laundromat at Dupont and St. George. "I met Zelman when I went in to do my laundry one day and he was asleep in one of the dryers," she once explained. "He looked like a deadbeat to me, with long hair, a bad complexion and green teeth."

Yanovksy had been born here, in Toronto, in the 1940s – the son of a Jewish immigrant from Ukraine who did political cartoons for old Communist magazines like The Canadian Tribune. And like a lot of Toronto's young socialist Jewish kids, Yanovsky went to Camp Naivelt in Brampton, famous for its leftist politics and the legendary folk musicians who came by to visit. The RCMP would hang out at the front entrance taking down license plate numbers while people like Pete Seeger and Phil Ochs played guitar around the campfire. Plenty of campers came away inspired, teenagers singing old activist labour songs. That's how The Travellers got together — they're the guys who recorded the Canadian version of Woody Guthrie's "This Land Is Your Land". And Sharon from Sharon, Lois and Bram went there too. (She has a story about watching Seeger sing a chain-gang song while he chopped wood, swinging the axe as percussion.)

And so, when Yanovsky was late for school at Downsview Collegiate one day and they wouldn't let him in, he just left and never came back. Instead, the sixteen year-old dropped out of school altogether and headed down to Yorkville, where he could make a bit of cash playing folk music in the smoke-filled Beatnik coffee houses that had recently begun to spring up in the neighbourhood's rundown Victorian homes. That's where he'd spend most of the next few years, as those blocks north of Bloor became home to one of the most vibrant artistic scenes of the 1960s.

He did leave town for a while, taking off to work on a kibbutz in Israel, but that didn't last very long. They kicked him out after he accidentally drove a bulldozer through a building. He spent a little time busking in Tel Aviv, and then returned to work as a waiter at the Purple Onion (a famous folk club at the corner of Avenue and Yorkville, where Buffy Saint-Marie would soon write "Universal Soldier") and play guitar at places like the Bohemian Embassy (a couple of blocks south of Bloor, where poets like Margaret Atwood and Gwendolyn Macewen had already gotten their starts and folk musicians like Joni Mitchell and Gordon Lightfoot would soon be singing their earliest songs). Yanovsky didn't make much money doing it though, so to help supplement his income, he stole milk bottles off front porches and turned them in for the deposit. Which, uh, didn't really make him all that much money either. And since he couldn't scrape together enough for rent, he ended up spending his nights sleeping in a dryer at a nearby coin laundry.

Jackie Burroughs in 1970
That's where Jackie Burroughs found him. She was in her early twenties back then, having moved here from England with her family when she was 12. They lived on the Island and then in Rosedale, wealthy enough to send their daughter to the super-exclusive-rich-girl-school Branksome Hall. By the time she walked into that fateful laundromat, she was studying literature at the nearby University of Toronto and had started getting into acting, appearing on stage in school productions at Hart House. And as unlikely as it might seem, she fell in love with that unkempt homeless guy she met sleeping in a dryer. She took him home to stay at her place. One day, they'd end up getting married.

But first, they'd end up living on different continents. Zal Yanovsky wasn't the only homeless musician haunting Yorkville in 1961. The scene was still brand new back then, but it was already beginning to attract artists and musicians from all over the country. One of them was Denny Doherty. He'd just moved here from the Maritimes with his folk band, The Halifax Three. And even though they'd signed a record deal, that didn't mean Doherty had a permanent address. "What – get a lease? Get a landlord?" he once scoffed. "No, man. We were gypsies. We were vagabonds. We slept wherever we could sleep." So it makes a weird kind of sense, I guess, that when The Halifax Three were looking for a new guitarist, they ended up asking Zal Yanovsky to join the group.

While Burroughs headed off to England to study acting and dance, honing the skills that would make her a Canadian icon, Yanovksy was back in North America, pursuing his music career with The Halifax Three. And holy shit was that career about to take off.

It happened through a bizarre series of drug-fueled events and chance encounters that began in the fall of 1963:

1. The Halifax Three got a spot on the Hootenanny USA tour and decided to stay on in the States afterward. Yanovsky and Doherty got a gig as the house band at a bar in Washington D.C., but that ended quickly — and badly — when Wavy Gravy came in one night with some pot. They knew the comedian, who would be the Master of Ceremonies at Woodstock a few years later, from their trips to New York, when they played coffee houses in Greenwich Village. But while Yanovsky and Doherty were used to getting high, their young drummer wasn't. He had a bad trip and ran home screaming something about how he was losing his mind, which meant that his large and angry father came looking for the guys who'd gotten him stoned. They decided that was probably a good time to leave town. They moved to New York City.

2. Wavy Gravy wasn't the only person they knew in Greenwich Village. When they got to NYC, they joined a band led by another friend of theirs — a kickass up-and-coming folksinger named Cass Elliot. At first, the group played fairly traditional folk music. But after watching The Beatles perform that legendary gig on The Ed Sullivan show, they renamed themselves The Mugwumps (a Naked Lunch reference) and went electric, mixing a bit folk with garage-rocking R&B. Every once in a while, a harmonica player would sit in with them too. His name was John Sebastian and he just happened to have the best drugs in the Village. They spent most of their time living together in a room at the ramshackle Albert Hotel, jamming and baking illegal brownies.

The Mugwumps
3. The Mugwumps kind of ruled, but they might have been a bit ahead of their time. This was, after all, a year before Bob Dylan went electric and even he got his ass booed by folk purists for doing it. The Mugwumps never really broke through, and sort of just stopped playing. Their bills piled up; soon, it looked like they might get kicked out of the hotel. But on that Hootenanny USA tour, Yanovsky and Doherty had befriended yet another band: The Journeymen. And now that group's guitarist and vocalist, a guy by the name of John Phillips, had just moved from California to the Village with his drop-fucking-dead-gorgeous-ex-model wife, Michelle. (They'd met a couple of years earlier, when he was 25 and married with kids and she was 16.) They were starting a new band, The New Journeymen, and their first gig was just a few days away, opening for Bill Cosby, and they needed another vocalist. When they asked Doherty to it, he had to stay up all weekend downing pharmaceuticals while he frantically learned the songs. But he did it. And the show went well. The Mugwumps had enough money to pay their rent and it looked like The New Journeymen were off to a pretty good start.

4. The night The New Journeymen dropped acid for the first time, there was a knock at the door. Michelle Phillips was the one who answered it — at the very same moment that the drugs started to kick in. She found Doherty's friend Cass Elliot from The Mugwumps standing on the other side of the door. "My life went from black and white to Technicolor," she once said about that moment. "There was Cass: this big, big girl wearing a pink Angora sweater, little white go-go boots and the longest false eyelashes you can imagine." The four of them — Denny Doherty, Cass Elliot, John and Michelle Phillips — all bonded that night during their first LSD trip, and after a blindfolded Michelle threw a dart at a map, they all ended up living together in a tent on a beach in the Virgin Islands.

Oh, sure, it must have been awkward at times: Cass had a crush on Denny Doherty, who was having an affair with Michelle Phillips, while John wrote jealous songs about it and refused to let Cass into the band... or, at least, he refused for a while, until one day she got knocked unconscious by a falling pipe and woke up with a higher vocal range. By the time they ran out of money and the Governor finally kicked them off the island for their drug-addled beach escapades, Cass was in the band and they'd already written some of the most famous songs, well, ever. They were finally The Mamas & The Papas.

5. Meanwhile, back at the Albert Hotel in New York City, Zal Yanovsky had teamed up with that drug-dealing harmonica player John Sebastian, and a couple of other guys, to form their own new band. At first, they practiced in their room, but after guests complained about the racket, they were forced to rehearse their cheerful, upbeat pop tunes in the hotel's dingy basement, surrounded by puddles and cockroaches. That's where they perfected their first single, "Do You Believe In Magic?" They called themselves The Lovin' Spoonful.

The Lovin' Spoonful
Both bands blew up immediately. That summer, "Do You Believe In Magic?" was a top ten Billboard hit. By the end of November, so was "California Dreaming" by The Mamas & The Papas. Then came "Monday, Monday", "Summer In The City", "Dedicated To The One I Love". The AM radio airwaves of 1966 were filled with Doherty's soothing voice and Yanovsky's joyful guitar. A few years earlier, they'd been couch- and dryer-surfing their way through Yorkville. Now, they were HUGE.

By then, Jackie Burroughs was back from England. She'd spent a year there, at a theatre in a small northern town, before returning to the stage in Toronto and Winnipeg and then heading to New York. She studied acting with the Broadway legend Uta Hagen (who also taught Al Pacino, Jack Lemmon, and a bunch of other famous people; she was Judy Garland's voice coach). And she studied dance with Martha Graham (who they call "the Picasso of Dance"; she got her own Google doodle last year) and Merce Cunningham (who worked with experimental musicians like John Cage; more recently with Radiohead and Sigur Ros and Sonic Youth). And while Burroughs was studying with all of them, she also re-kindled her relationship with Yanovsky, moving in with him at the Albert Hotel. A year later, they were married and their daughter Zoë was born.

But things kind of didn't really end well for The Lovin' Spoonful. That same year, Yanovsky was busted for pot possession. And since he was Canadian, the cops could threaten to deport him: he'd be banned from the U.S., they said, if he didn't tell them who his dealer was. So he told them. And that was pretty much it for him and the music world. Fans boycotted The Lovin' Spoonful; his fellow musicians ostracized him. Finally, he and Burroughs had to move back to Toronto and he quit playing in bands altogether. Their marriage, which had apparently always been rocky, got worse. Burroughs claims they called it quits in that very same laundromat — between "rinse" and "spin dry". After the divorce, Yanovsky settled down in Kingston with Zoë to run spend the second half of his life running the Chez Piggy restaurant and the Pan Chancho Bakery.

Now it was Jackie Burroughs making her mark on pop culture. She became a fixture in Yorkville at the artist-hangout-y Pilot Tavern, and on the stages of Toronto and the Stratford Festival, performing alongside theatrical giants like Maggie Smith, Peter O'Toole and Jessica Tandy. The Montreal Gazette called her "an actress of thunder and lightning on stage" and wrote thousands of words about her fiery determination and experimental flair. "Give her a law or a limit and she'll smash herself against it," they wrote. "[She] took a hammer to the safe values and social conventions of her Canadian upbringing". When the Star's drama critic didn't bother to see a play she liked, she stormed into his office and berated him for failing to support Canadian productions ("Nothing good will ever come out of Canada!" he screamed back) and then she publicly berated Canadian productions for their mediocrity. She lived off grilled cheese sandwiches and coffee and cigarettes. ("There's nothing like Kraft cheese and Wonder Bread," she claimed during an interview at the Russian Tea Room.) And she played with her fashion choices, too. ("It takes a lot of planning to put together a tacky outfit like this... I've sat down in streetcars and had people move away.") When she played a junkie on TV, she shot sugar water into her veins. And when the Festival Express came to town, she partied with the likes of Janis Joplin and The Band.

Then came Anne of Green Gables. She landed the role of Amelia Evans in the CBC adaptation of Lucy Maude Montgomery's book, which turned out to be one of the highest rated things to have ever been shown on Canadian television. After PBS picked it up, it won a freaking Emmy. And that was nothing compared to the series they followed it up with: Road To Avonlea. The show ran for seven seasons and was broadcast all over the world. It won four Emmys; was nominated for sixteen. And it drew guest appearances from some of the most respected actors around: Faye Dunaway, Michael York, Dianne Wiest, John Neville, Diana Rigg, Christopher Lloyd, Stockard Channing. Playing the eccentric Aunt Hetty to the young Sarah Polley's Sarah Stanley, Burroughs became an icon. She'd be a familiar face on Canadian stages and screens for the rest of her life.

She died here, in Toronto, in 2010. Zal Yanovksy had passed away eight years earlier. Denny Doherty a few years after that. They say even her death was an unconventional experiment. As her stomach cancer slowly killed her, Burroughs made the arrangements for her funeral, said her goodbyes, and surrounded herself with family and friends, facing it all head on. "I never knew it was possible to die so eloquently," Sarah Polley told the Globe and Mail, "breaking down boundaries and rules and storming the gates of experience..."

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I first stumbled across this through the laundromat story, which was in Before The Gold Rush by Nicholas Jennings, which is all about the music scene in Yorkville and on the Yonge Street strip in the '60s. You can buy it here or get it from the library here. Although if you want the Northern District branch copy, you'll have to wait until I'm done with it.

You're probably going to want to read the full Montreal Gazette profile of Jackie Burroughs from 1976, which you can check out here. It's FULL of stuff. (Like: "The other night when I went home in a cab and the taxi driver, who was really beautiful, asked if he could come up. At first I thought, what if he's an axe murderer? Then I thought, well, what the hell, and gave him my phone number.") There are a couple of obituaries with more about her here and here. And a review of a Stratford play she was in with Maggie Smith and Jessica Tandy here.

There's an interview with Michelle Phillips here. And John Phillips here. His post-The Mamas & The Papas legacy has also been rocky — one of his daughters has accused him of having an incestuous relationship with her. There's stuff on Wikipedia about that here. There's more about Denny Doherty here. And Mama Cass here. And Zal Yanovsky here. And the Albert Hotel here. And The Mamas & The Papas here and here.

A couple of years ago, there was an exhibit of work by Zal Yanovksy's Communist father — cartoons and a mural in tribute to Norman Bethune — which you can learn more about here.

I also stumbled over some Road To Avonlea trivia researching this. Like, that Dianne Wiest won an Emmy for a guest appearance on the show. And Faye Dunaway and Michael Yorke and Christopher Lloyd and Christopher Reeve and Stockard Channing all showed up in episodes. So did Ryan Gosling, before he became super-famous, but after he'd been a Mousekeeter and lived at Justin Timberlake's house. You can watch him on the show here.

The Mamas & The Papas wrote a song about how they got together, Creeque Alley. I'm embedding it and then "Do You Believe In Magic?":

Saturday, May 12, 2012

The Ford Brothers' Worst Nightmare



From the year 1900, one of Toronto's early streetcars. This, I presume, is what the Ford Brothers are thinking of when the dimiss 21st century light-rail technology as "fancy" "trolleys". And if that weren't enough to keep them up nights, you'll notice the sign on the tree to the left: an offer to check passengers' bicycles for free.